" I first visited Kurdistan in 2003. I arrived in the town of Sulaimaniyah, courtesy of smugglers who drove me across the border from Iran. Sulaimaniyah was a small, charming provincial Kurdish town. "
- Luke Harding

The quote describes an initial visit to Sulaimaniyah, a town in Kurdistan, by an individual who entered through unofficial means from Iran. The visitor found the place small and quaint with a provincial charm typical of Kurdish towns.

This passage reflects not only the personal experience of entering a foreign region but also highlights the complexities of travel during politically sensitive times. By using smugglers to cross the border, it underscores the political tensions and restrictions that can make such journeys challenging. Additionally, the description of Sulaimaniyah as small yet charming offers insight into its cultural ambiance, suggesting a sense of innocence or simplicity in contrast with more metropolitan areas. This snapshot captures both geographical detail and emotional reflection, painting a vivid picture for readers about life in this part of Kurdistan.

Luke Harding is a seasoned journalist known for his investigative reporting on international affairs. His quote provides a firsthand account of visiting Kurdistan during the early 2000s, a period marked by significant political upheaval and change in the region.