Garrett McNamara : (5)

" Riding big waves was my passion. " - Garrett McNamara

" I’ve been soulsearching: why do I do this? Because I don’t really get the rush on these waves, and I don’t surf for records. It’s more to do with my love for Nazare – I want to bring attention to the town. " - Garrett McNamara

" I’m hurtling down bumpy, choppy water very close to being out of control, doing everything I can to stay on my board. One misstep and you’re going to get squashed by tons of water. To not get hurt, I need to take everything into consideration: strength, nutrition and mind-set. " - Garrett McNamara

" I always say it’s not how big the wave is, it’s how you ride it. " - Garrett McNamara

" You can go very quickly from heaven and find yourself in hell. " - Garrett McNamara